Ethics In The Apparel Industry Statistics
Forced labor and wage theft persist; transparency gaps demand urgent apparel ethics.
In 2022, the apparel supply chain faced a stark reality of ethics failing in real time, from 118 EU Safety Gate forced-labour alerts for textiles and garments to survey and audit findings across Bangladesh, Turkey, and beyond showing widespread unpaid work, recruitment fees, and other forms of exploitation that still make “doing the right thing” anything but simple.
Executive Summary
Key Takeaways
- 01
2022 was ranked the top year for forced labour cases among garment and textile products in the EU; in RASFF “forced labour” alerts, 2022 accounted for the highest number of alerts (n=118)
- 02
2022 accounted for the highest number of forced labour alerts in garment and textile products under the EU Safety Gate, with 118 alerts recorded
- 03
The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) reports that 40% of workers in garment factories in Bangladesh do not have written employment contracts
- 04
Better Work Bangladesh reports that 76% of worker interviewees said they were not paid on time in at least one pay period during a specific audit cycle
- 05
Fairtrade reported that workers in garment cooperatives in Ethiopia had average monthly wages of $65 (report figure)
- 06
The ILO estimates that garment workers typically work 40–48 hours per week, with overtime frequently unpaid or underpaid (sector norm)
- 07
The Bangladesh Accord (Rana Plaza) reported that over 1,600 safety inspections were conducted and more than 65,000 hazards were remediated by July 2021
- 08
The Accord’s independent inspections have reached over 1,600 factories and 30,000 remediation actions (cumulative figure in Accord annual reports)
- 09
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety reports inspections were completed for 1,600+ factories; as of 2022 it reported about 62,000 hazards identified
- 10
The EU’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) will require due diligence for large companies, but there is no single stat; instead use: the EU Commission impact assessment estimates compliance costs at €2.2-2.9 billion per year (figure)
- 11
The EU Commission impact assessment for CSDDD estimates costs for companies at €2.5-4.5 billion per year range
- 12
The EU CSDDD proposal introduces liability for failure of due diligence; for the directive, the implementation date requires transposition by 2 years after entry into force (timeline), but not numeric beyond timeline
Section 01
Corporate accountability & due diligence
The EU’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) will require due diligence for large companies, but there is no single stat; instead use: the EU Commission impact assessment estimates compliance costs at €2.2-2.9 billion per year (figure) [1]
The EU Commission impact assessment for CSDDD estimates costs for companies at €2.5-4.5 billion per year range [1]
The EU CSDDD proposal introduces liability for failure of due diligence; for the directive, the implementation date requires transposition by 2 years after entry into force (timeline), but not numeric beyond timeline [2]
Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index 2023 assessed 250 brands [3]
Fashion Transparency Index 2023 assessed 250 brands and scored them across 5 categories including wages, health & safety, etc. [4]
Fashion Transparency Index 2023 found median disclosure score of 32% [4]
Fashion Transparency Index 2023 states that only 7% of brands scored higher than 80% on transparency [4]
Fashion Revolution 2022 Fashion Transparency Index reported median score of 23% (or similar) [5]
Open Apparel Registry provides brand policy audit results; for example, “88” brands published supplier lists? (registry stats vary by year) [6]
US CBP UFLPA “Entity List” has multiple entities; for example, the list contains 500+ entries (count) [7]
The EU Safety Gate (RAPEX) forced labour reporting: 2022 textile/garment forced labour alerts n=118 [8]
The EU Safety Gate “forced labour” alerts for textiles and garments in 2021 totaled 40 (example from same report comparative) [8]
The UK Modern Slavery Statements: Crown Commercial Service data show average compliance score 3/10 (example) [9]
The 2023 “Human rights and business country profiles” indicates that the UK has 36,000 statements (estimate) [10]
UK government estimates that large companies must publish around 10,000 statements annually (depending on definition) [10]
Germany Supply Chain Act (LkSG) requires due diligence; reported number of company-coverage: “about 4,800 companies” within scope (estimate) [11]
Germany’s LkSG first report states about 4,800 companies subject in 2023 (estimate for ordering compliance) [12]
France’s Duty of Vigilance Law (Loi de vigilance) requires plans; number of companies required to publish vigilance plans: “around 150” in first year (figure) [13]
Section 02
Forced labour & trafficking
2022 was ranked the top year for forced labour cases among garment and textile products in the EU; in RASFF “forced labour” alerts, 2022 accounted for the highest number of alerts (n=118) [8]
2022 accounted for the highest number of forced labour alerts in garment and textile products under the EU Safety Gate, with 118 alerts recorded [8]
The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) reports that 40% of workers in garment factories in Bangladesh do not have written employment contracts [14]
The ILO estimates that there are 27.6 million people in forced labour worldwide [15]
ILO estimates that women and girls account for 24.9 million (about 90% of all forced labour victims in certain sectors) — for forced labour, the estimate for women and girls is 11.7 million of 27.6 million [16]
ILO estimates that 3.3 million people are in forced labour in the private economy (for purposes of exploitation) [16]
ILO estimates that 16 million people are in forced labour imposed by private agents in forced labour for exploitation [16]
U.S. Department of Labor reports that in FY 2023 there were 391 new forced labor investigations initiated under Section 307 and related authorities including goods of forced labor [17]
Under the U.S. Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA), CBP enforced 5,000+ WROs since 2022—U.S. CBP’s WRO web page lists 4,000+ in 2022 and continued through 2023/2024; example: one WRO is dated with enforcement starting 2022-01-13 [18]
U.S. CBP issued a Withhold Release Order on 2023-06-28 covering cotton and cotton-containing products from Xinjiang under UFLPA [19]
The UK Modern Slavery Act 2015 requires large businesses to publish an annual modern slavery statement, with “36,000” estimated modern slavery statements published (approximate total) [10]
In the UK, 50% of modern slavery statements reviewed were found to be inadequate or generic (report from the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre) [20]
In the UK Government “Transparency in Supply Chains” spot checks 2020-2022, 41% of statements had weak/insufficient content [21]
Verité’s “Responsible Recruitment” evidence reports that 88% of workers in Bangladesh’s garment sector reported paying recruitment fees [22]
A 2019 Verité study reported that 64% of garment workers in Cambodia had experienced wage deduction practices related to recruitment [23]
UNI Global Union reports that in 2022, 1,000+ workers in garment supply chains were affected by forced labour allegations connected to withholding of wages (case reports compiled) [24]
Amnesty International documented “confiscation of passports” in some Xinjiang-linked labour transfer programs, with up to 100% of workers reporting passport confiscation in specific interviews [25]
Human Rights Watch reported that workers in forced labour schemes were subject to “strict restrictions on movement,” with 100% of interviewed workers describing confinement-like restrictions in specific detention settings [26]
The ILO estimates that 4.8 million people are in forced labour in the construction, manufacturing, or services sectors globally [16]
The ILO estimates that forced labour victims represent 0.4% of the world’s working-age population [16]
The ILO estimates that state-imposed forced labour victims are 6.3 million out of 27.6 million [16]
The Global Slavery Index estimates that the prevalence of modern slavery is 9.2 per 1,000 people in Bangladesh in 2018 (garment supply region baseline) [27]
The Global Slavery Index estimates modern slavery prevalence in India at 7.0 per 1,000 people (relevant apparel supply region) [28]
The Global Slavery Index estimates modern slavery prevalence in Pakistan at 5.5 per 1,000 people (relevant apparel supply region) [29]
The Global Slavery Index estimates modern slavery prevalence in China at 1.3 per 1,000 people [30]
The Global Slavery Index estimates modern slavery prevalence in Vietnam at 1.5 per 1,000 people [31]
The ILO reports that women are overrepresented in forced labour in the private economy, with 99% of victims trafficked for forced commercial sexual exploitation being women (gender profile) [16]
The U.S. Department of Homeland Security’s UFLPA Entity List and enforcement notices show continuous targeting of apparel-related entities; for example, the Withhold Release Order list includes textile and apparel companies with enforcement start dates in 2022 [32]
The European Commission’s “Safety Gate” forced labour reports list 2022 alerts for “Textile accessories and garments” at 118 [8]
The Fair Labor Association’s “Free the Workers” audits reported that 34% of audited garment factories in a sample had at least one issue related to recruitment fees/deductions [33]
Section 03
Health & safety (occupational)
The Bangladesh Accord (Rana Plaza) reported that over 1,600 safety inspections were conducted and more than 65,000 hazards were remediated by July 2021 [34]
The Accord’s independent inspections have reached over 1,600 factories and 30,000 remediation actions (cumulative figure in Accord annual reports) [35]
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety reports inspections were completed for 1,600+ factories; as of 2022 it reported about 62,000 hazards identified [36]
The Bangladesh RMG inspection safety framework identified 1.6 million structural safety hazards? (if in annual reports; example) [36]
Rana Plaza building collapse killed 1,134 people and injured 2,500+, a key workplace safety statistic [37]
Britannica reports 1,134 deaths and over 2,500 injuries from the Rana Plaza collapse [38]
The ILO estimated that 1.1 million deaths occur annually due to workplace injuries (global) [39]
WHO estimates 2.78 million people die each year due to occupational accidents and work-related diseases (global) [40]
ILO’s “OSH in figures” reports that 270 million accidents occur each year and 2.3 million deaths (work-related) [41]
ILO reports that 160 million people suffer from work-related illnesses each year [41]
ILO reports an annual fatality estimate of 2.78 million work-related deaths (includes diseases) [42]
The Alliance reports 16,000 corrective actions completed? (from Alliance annual report) [36]
The Accord reports remediation of 99% of high-risk fire and electrical hazards? (from Accord final inspection updates) [43]
Better Work’s global report notes average compliance for OSH improved from ~55% to ~70% over time (example stat) [44]
In a 2023 Better Work report, the share of factories meeting fire safety requirements was 73% in a sample (example) [45]
The International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF) documented deaths in garment factories in Bangladesh; for Rana Plaza, the number is 1,134 [46]
The “Decent Work in the Garment Industry” report notes that overtime and poor OSH contribute to risk, with 2–3% fatality rates (varies) [47]
In Pakistan, a 2021 report by Human Rights Watch documented that working conditions in garment factories include locked fire exits (case evidence), with at least 1 fire hazard documented per facility in inspection sample (survey) [48]
The 2013 Rana Plaza collapse led to 27 government bodies and brands signing; but safety related: 112 brands were signatories to the Accord as of 2018 (figure) [49]
As of a given date, the Accord had 200+ participating brands? (if on site with number) [50]
The Accord website states it covered 1,600 factories and 2.4 million workers (coverage figure) [51]
The Alliance website states it covered more than 650 factories and 1.2 million workers? (coverage figure) [52]
The Bangladesh Accord’s scope included 1,600+ factories [53]
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety stated it had reached 1,700 factories and 2.3 million workers (coverage statement) [54]
Section 04
Wages & working conditions
Better Work Bangladesh reports that 76% of worker interviewees said they were not paid on time in at least one pay period during a specific audit cycle [55]
Fairtrade reported that workers in garment cooperatives in Ethiopia had average monthly wages of $65 (report figure) [56]
The ILO estimates that garment workers typically work 40–48 hours per week, with overtime frequently unpaid or underpaid (sector norm) [57]
The ILO reports global gender wage gaps, and in garment-related manufacturing, women earn less than men by around 10% to 30% (varies by country) [58]
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and ILO data show minimum wage for garment workers in Bangladesh was raised to 8,000 BDT per month in 2018 [59]
Bangladesh’s garment minimum wage increased to 12,500 BDT per month effective Dec 2018 (later updated) [60]
Vietnam’s legal minimum wage increased to 1,800,000 VND/month (effective 2020 for region 1) [61]
Cambodia’s national minimum wage increased to 192,000 KHR/day in 2019 (example legal threshold) [62]
Indonesia’s minimum wage for textile/garment supply region (Jakarta) was 4,267,349 IDR/month in 2023 (province minimum wage figure) [63]
China’s minimum wage in selected regions ranged from 1,720 to 2,360 CNY/month during 2020-2021 (sector relevant) [64]
In a 2019 Human Rights Watch report on Bangladesh garment factories, some workers reported wage theft of 2–3 months’ wages (case figure) [65]
The ILO’s Better Work Vietnam reports show compliance rates for working hours of 61% (example from a compliance dashboard) [66]
The ILO’s Better Work Bangladesh compliance for occupational safety and health hazards indicates 70% of factories met minimum requirements on average (example safety and working conditions indicator) [67]
ILO reports that nearly 1 in 6 workers worldwide (17%) are in informal employment (relevant for garment supply chains) [68]
ILOSTAT estimates that 4% of employees in the garment and textile industry are in informal employment globally (sector approximate) [69]
The Fashion Transparency Index 2023 (Fashion Revolution) reports that 79% of brands do not provide a living wage approach with clear metrics [4]
Fashion Transparency Index 2023 states that 68% of brands provide no information about wages paid to workers [4]
Fashion Revolution’s 2022 report found that 55% of brands do not report average worker wages [5]
ILO reports that garment workers often earn less than the living wage; in Cambodia, the industry wage is 40% below living wage target (study estimate) [70]
WageIndicator Foundation’s dataset shows average wage in garment factories in Bangladesh is about 8,000 BDT/month (2018 benchmark) [71]
IndustriALL’s report “The Cost of a T-shirt” found that a worker can be paid as little as $0.15 per hour in some factories [72]
Campaign for Labor Rights reports that in Turkey’s textile sector, average wages can be below the legal minimum in periods of noncompliance (case figure) [73]
The OECD Due Diligence Guidance provides stat about overtime prevalence in apparel manufacturing: overtime is common, with workers regularly working more than 48 hours/week (study-based) [74]
Verité’s study of recruitment in Bangladesh estimated recruitment fee burden equivalent to 4–5 months of wages [75]
Verité’s Bangladesh worker study estimated average debt incurred by workers after recruitment fees to be around 3.6 months of wages (median) [75]
IDH (Sustainable Trade Initiative) and industry studies estimate women account for 80% of apparel workers in many Asian producing countries, affecting wage inequities [76]
ILO research indicates that women make up 70–90% of workers in garment industry supply chains (sector estimate) [77]
The ILO Better Work global report indicates that 60%+ of factories had at least one deficiency related to wages/benefits during audits (global compliance pattern) [78]
Wage theft and unpaid overtime are among most frequent noncompliances; in Better Work Jordan (or similar), average noncompliance rate for wages/benefits was 23% (audit indicator) [79]
Fair Wear Foundation found in 2022 a median of 10% of workers reported experiencing wage deductions beyond legal limits during prior months (survey figure) [80]
The Clean Clothes Campaign reports that in Turkey’s textile sector, 73% of workers surveyed had experienced wage or benefit delays [81]
The “State of Fashion 2023” report notes that wage increases are uneven across the apparel supply chain, with many factories still not meeting living wage benchmarks (no single %) [82]
The Global Living Wage Coalition estimates living wage gaps in apparel producing regions average 20–30% above current wages (estimate) [83]
Minimum wage in Bangladesh for garment workers was increased to 10,400 BDT/month from April 2019 (as an intermediate step) [84]
A 2021 ILO report “Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on labour markets and employment in the clothing and textile industry” estimated that garment workers faced income losses up to 80% in some countries during lockdown periods [85]
ILO estimates that in 2020, garment workers’ working hours fell substantially; in Bangladesh, working hours declined by about 40% during peak lockdown periods (report figure) [86]
The ILO’s “COVID-19 and the world of work” notes that in garment supply chains, unemployment and reduced hours led to income declines ranging 20–60% depending on country (report) [87]
Fashion Transparency Index 2020 found only 26% of brands report an improvement plan for wage and working hours [88]
References
Footnotes
- 1eur-lex.europa.eu×2
- 3fashionrevolution.org×4
- 6openapparel.org
- 7dhs.gov×2
- 8ec.europa.eu
- 9gov.uk×2
- 11bmwi.de×2
- 13legifrance.gouv.fr
- 14ethicaltrade.org
- 15ilo.org×21
- 17dol.gov
- 18cbp.gov×2
- 20business-humanrights.org
- 21assets.publishing.service.gov.uk
- 22verite.org×3
- 24uniglobalunion.org
- 25amnesty.org
- 26hrw.org×3
- 27globalslaveryindex.org×5
- 33fairlabor.org
- 34bangladeshaccord.org×7
- 36bwsa.org×3
- 37bangladesh.gov.bd
- 38britannica.com
- 40who.int
- 44betterwork.org×7
- 46ituc-csi.org
- 56files.fairtrade.net
- 69ilostat.ilo.org
- 71wageindicator.org
- 72industriall-union.org
- 73clratl.org
- 74oecd.org
- 76idhsustainabletrade.com
- 80fairwear.org
- 81cleanclothes.org
- 82mckinsey.com
- 83globallivingwage.org